The Merits of Consistent Visits to One Origin

June saw my 5th visit to Brazil for coffee, though as a company we have been going for a lot longer than that. The familiarity that brings gives me time to reflect on the changes that have happened even in the short time I have been visiting, and comment more on the benefits regular repeated visits to an origin can bring.

Sao Paolo is a great first stop on any trip, not least because of the nature of their coffee shops. Green coffee is not permitted to be brought in to Brazil for bio security reasons. Which, as the worlds’ largest coffee producer, makes complete sense. This translates to a scene where Brazilian specialty coffee shops are peculiarly attuned to the regions and varietals of their own country. At least, in the big cities like SP.

This has gradually changed over the years I have been there and combined with broader internal tourism efforts in towns such as Sao Lourenco, there is now just as much of an acceptance of differentiated coffee as anywhere.

What does this look like? 12-15kg shop roasters and Geisha coffees farmed just down the road served in wine glasses on the high street. A choice of micro roasters. Coffees from other brands and countries imported to increase diversity of offerings. Even green coffees imported to other countries and roasted there specifically to be quickly imported to show what other origins taste like, via Brazilian roasters.

Pretty much everything that we have come to expect in consuming countries, except the farms are within touching distance. In fact, you can even go and visit them. Organised tours are growing apace with consumer interest, and some like Sitio Da Torre offer the opportunity to stay in chalets on the farm itself. Beautiful.

The fact that so many Brazilians are engaging with one of their national products is heartening. Brazilians have always loved coffee, but this feels different. More than just an appreciation of the worth, there seems to be an appreciation of the value. Now, coffee was not unvalued when I first visited. Companies such as Daterra, SMC and Cocarive have worked hard to make sure we in Europe and beyond could hear that message. That absolutely changed our perception of what Brazil could, and did, produce. But when a populace appreciates and values that product in the same way, then that feels a lot more significant than just finding buyers who are willing to pay more.

The Minas area in general is known for its food. Beef, dairy, sugar, beans, even carrots- all the regular farm crops you would expect exist here. Coffee is an integral part of that, reportedly producing 74% of the 2020 national harvest, putting it as the leading area in Brazil. Olives and vineyards are now springing up, and small-scale distilleries to produce cachaca, a spirit similar to rum made from cane sugar are seemingly everywhere. If you have ever been lucky enough to visit Brazil then you will know most farmers have a cheeky bottle around somewhere they are only too happy to break open with visiting buyers, but now these are accompanied by slick branding, marketing and an eye to the details I had not seen before.

What this looks like to me reflects our earlier trip to the Tarrazu region in Costa Rica. There is a whole scene change occurring. Eco-tourism is on the rise in area, and I would not be surprised if shortly we will all be hearing about agrotourism and the number of options that will bring. Farm stays, restaurants both infamous and local secrets, and with that, culinary and agronomical superstars of the future. Current world cupping champion Dionatan Almeida is from Brazil, testament to the growing interest and already demonstrable skill that exists within the country. Long the baseline of many a speciality coffee roaster, Brazil is as exciting as any other origin. As ever though, if you know where to look. Luckily, with companies such as Cocarive and SMC they know exactly where and are happy to show us around. So with all the above in mind, lets jump in to what’s happening now, country-wide.

 

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COCARIVE, ASCARIVE in Mantiqueira de Minas.

Our first farm visit on arriving in Sao Lourenco was Caquend. A perfect introduction to both farming and the stunning vistas that come hand in hand with the mountains. The coffee here was a little early, as we would see on all farms over the next week or so.

The intense heat of this year has sped up maturation, leading to the cherries on the edges of the fields already drying on the trees as naturals. This was not unduly worrying, as being dry the quality should be maintained, but as we have seen as the harvest progresses, this has led to smaller screen sizes, and a crop mix that is more in favour of naturals than pulped coffees. Smaller beans demand a little more attention on the patios and dry mills of farms too. A more careful eye to separate the defects from the good, and extra adjustments of the machinery to be able to process small beans correctly without damaging the larger screens through nips or cuts.

Like many of the farms we visit in the area, there are often more than a couple of names bouncing around. In this case, Caquend and Grota Funda. This is the legacy of family, and often these farms will be neighbours if not interlocking. Due to this, it’s common to find one wet and dry mill (they do both on the farm in Brazil), that is shared by the family. This is after all business, and a wet or dry mill is not a cheap thing to have. Both in the equipment required to process the coffee, and the land it takes up that could be growing trees on it.

Tradition challenged by innovation

The wet mill here has water tanks for washed processing, which is unusual for Brazil. A couple of years back this area also had blue barrels for processing anaerobics in test batches but they are not here anymore. In fact, they were not expected to return, and this is important.

In line with the appreciation of the unison of land, product, and people that denomination of origin recognition bestows, comes a responsibility. Denomination specifically awards areas that the product and processing uniquely tie to the land, and the increases in experimentation and sale of coffees differentiated through processing has led to early warning signs that this may be at risk if it continues too much.

This brings up an interesting dilemma. Which is more important, innovation or tradition? Whilst innovation propels businesses forward and has arguably changed the face of Brazilian coffee, tradition brings stability and continuity. The two are both a big issue in coffee, vital for making sure the business is there in the future, weathering the trends that come and go. Which will win out? Is it right that the innovator may cause the death of the traditionalist? What about the traditionalist stifling growth? A thought, given that we as consumers and buyers are the ones that drive this demand, and especially given that we regularly return to this area because of the character of the coffee itself. As one farmer put it to me “No-one buys a container of crazy ferment”.

Organic, sustainable, and renewing the earth.

Another change that has become apparent in the regular returns is the amount of wildlife on farms. Perhaps this is because I have got better at spotting it, but this can’t be true in all cases. Toucans, to me are the must see of a Brazilian trip, and I am confident these days in seeing them regularly on any trip we do.

This year, the Toco Toucan that you can often see almost comically flying through the air or bouncing along branches was joined by a Red Breasted Toucan on our visit to Sitio Da Torre, a farm I have watched grow on each visit. The newest area of the farm where we were has a focus on more organic friendly methods of cultivation as a semi trial to understand more fully the needs of this system in the area.

This would not have been seen when I first started visiting. Organic is not seen as good business practice here. It can result in lower yields and less profits for more work and increased risks, and one farm I used to visit is evidence of this as having championed organic production and now no longer existing and being a banana farm.

While the benefits are known and understood, a farm is a business and Brazilians will maintain the right to apply a chemical if absolutely needed. This does not mean they do it every day regardless. In fact, more and more farmers are looking at seed mixes and green manures for planting in between coffee rows. Often taller grasses are used as windbreaks to protect young trees, and some help break up the soil with thicker roots that allow the oxygen in once cut back and help prevent soil compaction.

This kind of practice is also visible, and lead by Helisson Afonso da Silva on his farm Baixadao and the fields surrounding the patios of the family-owned Sao Sebastiao. It was two or three years ago now where we first bumped in to his enthusiasm for all the worms in the soil after making the switch from tried and tested methods. Digging his hands in he was keen to show us the diaspora living in the soil he was growing his coffee.

This was not just cheap coffee either. Theirs is the farm that has scored the highest of any farm, anywhere in the world, for Cup of Excellence at the time. The interstitial spaces on their farms filled now with grasses, sunflowers and leguminous plants, they are aiming to be fully organic in 2 years (2026). It takes 3 years of auditing of provable organic soil before they are allowed to actually market it as such, and before this they needed to prove to themselves if it would work or not. They are still producing very high-end coffees in the traditional style. They also have not had any real drop in yield related to this, and so are being closely watched by others to fully understand best practises going forward.

Are certified coffees still viable?

So does this mean then that certs are an ignorable part of coffee in Brazil? Of course not. Take what is colloquially known as the ‘Fairtrade Village’, Sertaozinho. Last time, I came late in the day and year and whilst the hospitality was fantastic, there was no chance to really go see the fields, and the patios had mostly delivered their coffee to the warehouse. It’s an incredibly tight knit village, mostly consisting of extended family members from 3 main families and they all pull together in unison.

Again, the farms or fields are cheek by jowl with a cousins’, a sisters’, or a parents’ farm. Here, the women organised as a community and ensure that everyone is included in the FT practises and benefits that brings with the spending of the premiums. It’s a whole village effort. Coffee is dried out the front of the houses and then gathered together for delivery to the mill when dry. Not mixed, but transport is shared for efficiency and cost savings.

This is not, and never has been, untraceable commodity ‘Brazil’. Being early in the day, we were able to ascend the steep slopes through the shade trees and second crop, banana. Yes, this was also fairtrade certified, and at the time was earning them more than the coffee. This time, the sun was high and the vista immense. The sounds of the (mechanical) ‘hands’ picking on neighbouring farms would echo through the valley and draw comments of which farm they were on, and what the activity was. When it’s your turn to pick, family and neighbours help, and in the same way you return the favour when it is their turn. Through a mixture of altitude, varietals and aspects, nothing here is ready all at the exact same time.

Whilst I love seeing new and different in the trees, sometimes it is just as important to remind yourself of the community and life that exists in the here and now. Again that link with tradition. As we stood nonchanantly eating ripe,speckled yellow cherries from the occasional tree (Catucai, expected to be around 90 points) we discussed parallels with a roaster who has his own business set up as a co-op to show solidarity with the farmers and understand their model better. Yes, he bought coffee from here, and would do again.

Perhaps the Fairtrade model underlines the earlier importance placed on tradition, and the people that create that tradition in the first place. Again the coffee here has been awarded some of the highest scores in the area and competition wins because of it, but the focus remains firmly on the people, the village, and the families it holds. The premiums went to building a community hall, or similar projects that benefitted everyone.

Whilst hospitality is always shown to those visiting a first time, it’s great to be able to embody the meaning of relationships, by returning again as the importer and get to know them a little better each time. As a family business that has been around for 50+ years now, we are here for the long term.

The connection of family here was underlined again by our trip to the Dom Vicoso area, where the Anil Mantiqueira blend comes from, returning to see Rancho Sao Benedito. I had not been here since before the pandemic. They are related to another contributor to Anil, Boa Vista Do Anil, just over the hill which used to historically all be one farm, before being split amongst generations of the family. Here, not only are you treated to one of my favourite views from the area, high on a hill with the valley stretching out in front of you, but also run in to one of the growing changes in the area in terms of crops. Olives.

Olives are creeping across more and more hills in the area, seemingly ahead of the grapevines I have also heard about but not really witnessed en masse yet. They often say you plant an olive for your grandchildren, the trees take so long to mature. I have not seen that here but can attest to the fact that the trees have grown well, alternating in lines between the coffee at the higher altitudes, and the area is fast becoming renowned for the quality of its produce. I would have loved to bring some back, especially given the current prices and issues in Spain and Italy around olive oil pricing, but none is available or allowed as is so good its fully sold to a Michelin starred restaurant in the city! It’s that good. And yes, of course we were able to try a little bit on the farm itself. I couldn’t let that opportunity pass.

The evolution of any farm to have some changes in crops is useful. Climate change is affecting the area and everywhere we went I could see the cherries were drier on the edges of the rows and pathways. This was due to the hotter weather accelerating the maturation which is why we are seeing so many smaller beans and the market rose recently. A secondary crop offsets some of the risks of the boom and bust cycle coffee is prone to. This top area was populated with experimentation, from the olive trees intercropped with coffee, to new varietals and even raised drying beds as the higher altitude meant more direct sunlight, which meant shorter drying times. There was even some Geisha in flower from an unseasonal shower directly below the viewing platform, where hangliding had now ceased and new coffee was growing.

Crop wise, they were noticing on the farm that the younger coffee trees were more able to stand up to the heat. This may mean a change in pruning styles is needed, but it is hard to extrapolate this too far out so early on. Especially now that the olive trees have grown well enough to provide invaluable shade, and therefore slower maturation and protection from the sun.

I noted on previous trips how the ‘Safra Zero’ pruning method was used on several farms in Brazil. It feels that this is increasing in amount each year, but of course perhaps this is just the coincidence of the farms I visit and each farmers preference. There are a lot to visit and we cannot do them all in one trip, but for sure it is one I am keeping an eye on. The change seems to have moved from maybe a 1 in every 5 years’ pruning to almost a 1 in 2. New varietals may change this, and I am watching and waiting for the next generation to be harvested so we can see how they go. By pruning hard on a down year (when the plant produces less) you minimise your losses, and the increased vigor the year later offsets the portion of the farm that gives zero yield.

SMC – Tres Pontas, Guaxupe, Divisia Nova, and Caldas

Travelling up from the Mantiqueira region brings us not only to the SMC portion of our journey, but also to the town of Tres Pontas which I now know as Milton Nascimento’s hometown. The music of Brazil adds a good cultural element to the trip and is perfect for the next farm that exists there, Aracacu. Here, Dionatan Almeida, the current World Cup Tasters Champion works alongside Ucha, the owner and huge personality in the Brazilian coffee scene.

Dionatan has always been present on the farm when I have visited and it’s great to hear of his success. Seeing a part of that journey he has been on, and watching that growth is as informative for us as it is rewarding for him. Firstly, it underlines the nature of how Ucha does business. This makes all the more reason to continue buying from her and SMC, the exporter. They are living their values, and it is not just a marketing angle.

When I have been before, it was when Ucha was sponsoring a rock festival, hosting Cup of Excellence, or other community minded events. As the head of the Brazilian Coffee Association, she has done a lots for the coffee community, and continues to do so. She also plays music to her coffee once it has been processed, or sometimes, processes it to the tunes and rhythms of genres of music.

And she allows room for others. Dionathan’s expertise, and perhaps anybody that wins the Coffee championships with a strong link to a farm comes right to the fore. On the farm here he is both taster, roaster (they also have a small destination café with shop roaster on site), and processor. This means not only does he deeply understand the coffees, but the processing effects down the line too. He will pick out a roast issue that is related to the speed of drying at various percentages of moisture on the patio, for example. Now this is REALLY next level. The drying times when the bean is in between 16%-11% moisture he finds are critical in the development of flavour and character of the bean that he then gets to roast directly. It will be fun to see where their microlots go over the next few years with this added level of understanding with them.

This level of expertise and deep understanding is significant to another change you now find on farms. It was said that you left the farm to get an education so you didn’t have to come back. This was the goal for many workers or children of farm owners. Now, it has shifted to be ‘get an education so you can bring it back to the farm’. That recognition of the complexities of a farm and the need for agronomical, marketing, business and HR skills are what are driving farms forward today. They are providing careers for people around it, farms are not just related to manual jobs. In Brazil, where mechanised picking is more common, this can also drive innovation in farm machinery too. Daterra are the early adoption masters of that. And you can read more about that side of things here.

Solar panels are another growth area in coffee farms and at Aracacu they provide power for the farm and the local community. Aracacu have extended their push to reduce their impact and are registered carbon neutral as of July 2024. Solar energy is true with Cocarive who now provide the electricity for their local hospital with the overflow from the panels that supply their own needs. You can see it at Palmital, Monte Alto, and many other farms exported through SMC. The SMC offices are not only powered by solar energy but they even have a rainwater collection system to use greywater throughout the building.

Much of the focus on Brazil is based on what we hear around the Amazon and deforestation and not so much the situation where we are in Minas. Now it’s not to say things are perfect there, but 20% is the minimum area any farm needs to maintain as natural (excluding any waterways) by law. Most in Brazil don’t really talk about it, because it’s a given. The preservation of woodlands or scrub, or Savannah is second nature, and so for them seeing farms talk about similar sizes as a positive can strike them as a bit strange. One farmer last year was gobsmacked to read a roaster talking about how one farm was doing great with 10% as preserved forest, which was less than half of what they considered the bare minimum!

You find variances from farm to farm and see a few that are 21% or 22%, but then also find some that are 30%, 40% or more. Different farmers have different opinions but again, you get to understand the differences, see the behaviours and learn the loopholes that exist in any system like this. I guess the point is, you often won’t see this stuff on the first visit, as you are there to see the coffee. Once you have seen the coffee though, you start to notice what’s behind the coffee. And that can be far more telling than you initially expected.

Moving up to Palmital, it was great to see the changes happening here too. Palmital actually own three farms, so this was my chance to complete the trio and visit the last one, Santa Tereza. The split was across family again, with an aunt being bought out when she didn’t want to run the farm. This one concentrates on the higher altitude coffees, being located on the third peak visible from the patios of the main house. The second farm was further away and did the research on irrigation that I spent a whole day learning about last time.  

We got to meet some of the pickers here, and this highlights another angle. Much in Brazil is written about how it is all machine picked. This is not true on any sloped area although tools do get used to improve manual hand picking. These are also called hands, and can be confusing, but that’s quickly overcome. However, labour is still needed, albeit not quite in the numbers you see on other farms. This means that issues found in other countries are also found here. Any supply of good pickers at farm level is important. Ucha you can see fosters amazing links with her personable character, and at Palmital they have pickers that travel over 1000km from Bahia every year to come for the picking.  

Pay here is well above minimum. Housing with electricity, running water, and sanitation is provided and even a coach to collect and bring them to the farm. They will typically stay for around 3 months, so the farm also provides transport to the local schools for the children as well as to the nearby medical services in the local town should they need it. Elio, the group organizer has been coming back now for 35 years, testament to the level of treatment workers get I would suggest. For us at DRW, we’ve been buying for just over 13 years now.  

They have branched out a little into chickens, taking the silverskin and parchment and using as scratchings on the floor, something I used to do as a roastery many years ago! This is then collected and used as fertilizer on the farm, so a very closed loop system. All this stacks up to a continual push towards a closed loop production system as well as something that is a clever, efficient business. It’s just that it’s seen as good business, and not normally shouted about in a way we are expecting to see over here in Europe.  

Visiting a commercial farm

One of the farms I was particularly keen to see we visited for the first-time last year, and is a new farm being brought out of a long-term downturn by a new owner. The first visit was full of promise, with brand new houses built for the workers (I liked the way the priority felt people first here) and has since progressed apace with a whole new drying mill with clever heat recycling for lowering costs as well as recycling hot air to maximise efficiency and reduce environmental impact. Two new patios were built, and huge swathes of the land were being replanted. Replanting is often an example of what we take for granted that is a huge cost for a farmer. Not only is it the loss of any produce from that field, but the removal of stumps, prep of the soil and then 2-3 years before the first harvest is ready. The new trees when they do produce will be harvested by hand, being too small for any machine picking if necessary, and the trees themselves have to be bought too. None of these steps is without considerable expense.

On this farm, they were also investing in the non-profitable areas. Restoring some of the natural habitat that was around a water source was essential, as is a legal requirement. This restoration in itself would cost a lot of money and effort, but taken in unison with all the other elements there is a huge investment going on here. Now this is a big farm, of around 1000 hectares, but even within that lies some details. Waterways are not counted as part of the preserved habitat of a farm, having their own separate law that governs their protection. So on top of that, 300 hectares – 30% percent, or 10% more than is legally required -is being designated as protected land.

The quality that is currently coming from the land is good but not great. The previous condition of the farm means that most of the coffee ends up as commercial. In fact, we have bought this before as ‘santos’, but some is bought as speciality and goes in to our Pocos De Caldas regional blend, being within the catchment zone near the spa city. This additional premium paid by SMC has encouraged further investment, which was more than visible in my repeat visit this year.  

I am excited for the new varietals they are planting to come to harvest in a couple of years from now when perhaps we are buying it alongside a microlot or two. Maybe we will get to taste them in the new cupping lab that is part way through development, tasting with the farm workers who are being given money for further education and career development as part of the renovations.  

This then is perhaps at the heart of what makes repeat visits so good. It is more than good business.  It is a deeper insight into other people’s lived experiences. It is a tangible connection, an opportunity to tell a wider world of the work that is done in origin, and watch that grow, evolve, and flourish. It is an opportunity to stand alongside or support when it is needed, to be an ear when things are not quite working. And finally, to share a cachaca or two when things go right. And it is part of what we have been doing for over 50 years.